Personally I do All my boards using UV and Shipleys Resist.
I also print the Positive on Clear Acetate, "Twice".
Than I carefully line them up and Tape them, one on top of the other.
This gives a Much Higher Contrast and usually Eliminates any Glitches
in the Printing.
I do a Lot of Boards for projects I sell on my website and numerous
Persons have commented that they are Very Professional looking.
The Biggest Board I have ever done is in the Pictures Section here,
Named "Chemelec".
Using the positives I make, I can easily etch 10 ml traces and I have
etched 5 mil traces on occassion.
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--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Gary" <chemelec@h...> wrote:
> >
> > I'm using an Older HP 4L Printer.
> >
> > And What I have found is If you want to print Two Drawings that
Must
> > line up with each other, Print them One at a Time and Position
them
> > so Both "Print in the Same Area of the page".
> >
> > This way whatever Errors occurs in the First one,
> > Should also Occur the Exact Same in the Second one.
> >
> > Hope this Helps.........Gary
>
> Yes, that's an important point. I rotate one of the images 180
> degrees for that very reason. This especially important if you are
> panelizing (multiple boards in a single image).
>
> Its a good idea to print a test image to see where the distortions
> are. I use a copier so I just copied a piece of graph paper and
found
> some small distortion at one end of my copier. I avoid that area.
>
> Also, humidity is an issue to consider since the paper can shrink
when
> subjected to the fuser heat. You might try running the paper
through
> a blank print cycle to dry it but use it quickly before it reabsorbs
> the moisture.