If you have a vacuum pump (even a good shop vac or vacuum cleaner) you can put the board and the artwork in a Reynolds Aluminum 'Bake 'n Bag", pull a vacuum and set the iron on it. That should generate much more force (and much more unifom force at that) than you could ever generate by hand.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Weiss
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2004 11:24 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Questions about toner transfer method.
I just made another "test" board using Staples Picture Paper and
this time used more pressure and time under the iron and I am amazed
at the quality you can achieve!! There is no going back to the "old"
way for me...this works great! Thanks for all your help.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> You've probably got a decent transfer. etch it, dano.
>
> For inkjet paper brands, look in the database section. There are a
> number of inkjet papers people have reported good results with.
I've
> used 2 brands, Georgia Pacific InkjetPlus+ and, iirc, office max
> inkjet paper. Both did well though I am very very happy with the
> Georgia Pacific stuff. Inkjet papers are coated to prevent the
ink
> from soaking into the paper and blooming. Its basically regular
> inkjet paper - I'd bet any brand will work fine. Just make sure is
> says "formulated for inkjet printers" or similar. Don't use laser
> printer, copier or general purpose paper. Typically <$4 for a ream
of 500.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...>
wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for answering me, there was a couple spots very small
that
> > stayed on the paper when I pulled it off. I am assuming I didn't
> > heat it long enough or press hard enough. When you say inkjet
paper
> > which brand are you using? Is it like regular white ream paper
or
> > special stuff?
> >
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