Hi,
Congratualations! You are the first that actually tried that
combination and is happy with it. My historic role has been fulfilled
with just one soul being spared the aggrevation of cobbling up PCBs
using TT.
OK, I am talking out loud: who will publish the next good process for
something that can be simple and have great result?
I might add, that if one sticks to 0.030 PCBs then they can be cut
using regular scissors.
For drilling, we have our "Ballendo PCB Drill/Mill'.
We some a magic solution for plated holes.
For multilayer we already know that all is in gluing.
Have fun!
Mike
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mycroft2152"
<mycroft2152@y...> wrote:
> Thought I would put in my two cents on the subject.
>
> I make small pcb's for my BEAM robots using the free version of
> EAGLE cad. For my purposes a 3" by 4" board is huge. Making the pcb
> is only one step in a project, and shouldn't be a project in itself.
>
> I picked up a GBC laminator, the smaller 4" version and am using it
> with the Staples paper (aka Gootee paper) for both the traces and
> the component sides.
>
> All I can say it that it works. No fuss, pretty simple. I had
> considered building/converting a fuser. But this sertup is
> inexpensive (the smaller GBC is ~ $50) and easy to store.
>
> I'm sure that building a fuser could improve quality and reduce the
> number of passes, but for my purposes its overkill.
>
> I recommend the GBC / staples paper combo to anyone starting out.
>
> Myc
>
>
> P.S. I found that toner transfer works on painted surfaces. To
> improve the appearance of my bots, I give the top side of the pcb a
> light coat of Krylon flat white and then toner transfer. Looks
great.