I wrote what I think about other kinds of papers before I read your
not, kind of sensing that someone might not like what I wrote.
Please notice, that I am not telling you what paper to use, I am
telling you and others what works for me after a year of experiments
trying to fuse paper to copper. Rememebr that it all depends on what
kind of detail one wants to achieve; I am talking about very fine SMD
detail. I tried all kinds of papers with all kinds of results and the
most success rate I had was 70% of image transfered and the rest was
falling off easily in water. I spent lots of time cleaning, washing
and activating the copper and all was fruitless. IMO ironing does not
work for me as it is too finicky and unpredictable. If it's working
for you, that's great. What works for sure and like a dream is the HC
200 laminator and paper mentioned by Gootee. Now I am getting
terrific results that are comparable to a photgtaphic method. Again,
I do not care what you are using or not, what conductor is better or
not. For me the most important thing is to know and tell the
interested people on this board, which combination works, works
repeatadly and all the time. To say that I am amazed with the results
of TT is not enough. Do other laminators work? I don't know and I am
not even interested in it. My HC 200 is small, next to my printer
looks great and does its work like a dream. Hopefully you understand
my point. If you are happy with your method and results, that is
awsome because I tested that method and for me it's like a rulette
and I can recognize a rulette when I see one.
Mike
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> For the simple fact that many of us very successfully use other
paper
> and different methods of fusing toner to copper. Speaking just for
> myself, I dont like to hear xxx is the only thing you need to know,
> especially when I have a different technique that works quite well.
>
> Many of us use a good quality ink jet paper with excellent
results.
> You cant beat the cost of $0.01 per sheet. It sure makes it easy
to
> experiment at a very low cost. Others use magazine paper to good
> effect (though I dont like it because of "blooming"). Others use
> glossy or photo paper. The reality is that there are a suprising
> number of papers that work with somewhat different techniques.
> Frankly, I think any paper sold for toner transfer is grossly over
> priced.
>
> There are several ways to fuse the toner to copper. Irons or
> homebrew laser printer fusers are successfuly used. I've toyed
with
> the idea of baking two steel plates that sandwitch the paper/board
> assembly in the oven.
>
>
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> For the simple fact that many of us very successfully use other
paper
> and different methods of fusing toner to copper. Speaking just for
> myself, I dont like to hear xxx is the only thing you need to know,
> especially when I have a different technique that works quite well.
>
> Many of us use a good quality ink jet paper with excellent
results.
> You cant beat the cost of $0.01 per sheet. It sure makes it easy
to
> experiment at a very low cost. Others use magazine paper to good
> effect (though I dont like it because of "blooming"). Others use
> glossy or photo paper. The reality is that there are a suprising
> number of papers that work with somewhat different techniques.
> Frankly, I think any paper sold for toner transfer is grossly over
> priced.
>
> There are several ways to fuse the toner to copper. Irons or
> homebrew laser printer fusers are successfuly used. I've toyed
with
> the idea of baking two steel plates that sandwitch the paper/board
> assembly in the oven.
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
wrote:
> > Why is it a wrong statement that HC200 and Gootee paper is not
all
> > there is to TT? You don't have to make any changes to it if doing
> > 0.040 PCBs. And small chenges for 0.060 IAW provided link
> > www.pulsar.gs