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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Beginner questions on building a homebrew TT laminator

From: Esteban Arias <earias@...>
Date: 2004-07-29

I have the same configuration with a HP 4L fuser and bipolar stepper motor.

I supply 220v to the fuser. We have 220v in my country. In the manual
service of the printer talk of two type of fuser for 110v and 220v.

For driver the fuser I used the same pieces of the board of the printer:
triac, optocoupler, coil, transistor and resistor. Stefan Trethan send to
my the circuit for driver the fuser and this use the same thermistor inside
the unit.

I buid a circuit for move the bipolar stepper motor with a PIC and a L298.

Greetings from Chile
(sorry by my english)

Esteban Arias
earias@...

At 12:15 p.m. 29-07-2004, you wrote:
>Apparently I cannot wield a clothes iron very well (my pattern
>usually turns out like swiss cheese), so I'm going to start
>constructing a laminator out of a Laserjet II fuser. The fuser was
>given to me, but I did not receive the power supply or motor. So,
>here are a few questions for those who have done the conversion, or
>just know the answers :)
>
>1) Does the fuser element take 110V AC (I'm in the US), or do I need
>a DC power source? I have some SSRs that are good to 20A, and would
>like to use one to control the temperature.
>2) Since I'm starting to tinker with microcontrollers, I would like
>to hook a PIC ADC port to the thermistor to create a crude
>temperature indication on an LCD and provide feedback for the SSR
>control. Are laser printer thermistors particularly "noisy" at any
>give temperature?
>3) Finally, I think I'll hook a hand crank onto the geartrain. Is an
>∗ultra∗ smooth feed required, or would I be able to crank it manually
>with acceptable results?
>
>Probably a bit much for a beginner, but I would like to give it a
>shot anyway. Thanks for any help or pointers you can give.
>
>
>Billy Byler
>
>
>
>
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