> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2004 18:29:10 +0200
> From: Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
> Subject: Re: Re: component legend on solder side
>
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 16:15:04 -0000, Dave Mucha <dave_mucha@...>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Stefan,
> >
> > My thoughts are in using a cloth or something that can be compressed
> > easily. the cloth on top of the paper would push more on the paper
> > so it would (hopefully) let the letters touch.
> >
> > Also, there is (expensive) transfer paper you can buy at hobby
> > stores. You can print on it and then like a decal, transfer it to
> > the board. This will not work with SMD parts as it also acts like a
> > coating on the board.
> >
> > Dave
> >
>
> anything that doesn't work for SMD is of no use as i can make near perfect
> legend on the top side of the board - for throughhole components.
>
> I also think something compressible might work.
> I had the silicone rubber lower pressure roller in mind, but it seems
> there the temperature isn't high enough. I will see if cranking
> the fuser temp. up a bit makes it any better.
>
> It could also be that the paper is just to stiff to be bent that much
> but i do not think this is the case because in some places the transfer
> continues just besides the trace with only a tiny gap. (i wouldn't mind
> the gap).
>
>
> This needs more experimenting, i'm sure it can be done.
>
> ST
>
------------------------------------
Stefan,
I haven't read many of the previous messages in this thread (Sorry. New member.) But, if you were doing a lot of these, it might be worth trying to use an "inverse image" board, i.e. having copper only wherever yours doesn't, probably with somewhat smaller copper areas than a true inverse-image board would have, so that the two boards would "fit together" when their copper sides were facing each other. With enough pressure, the inverse-image board's copper areas should be able to press the paper into the non-copper areas of the board being printed on.
This was just a thought. I've never tried it. I don't know how well the "board sandwich" would transfer the heat, or how much pressure you'd need, or how you'd keep the boards aligned, etc. And if you're not using a computer to generate your artwork it might not be quite as easy to generate the inverse-image board's artwork. But I thought I'd throw the idea out, anyway, just in case it might somehow be helpful. Good luck.
Regards,
Tom Gootee
http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg------------------------------------
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