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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] hot air soldering comments

From: hans@...
Date: 2002-05-07

Steve,
Preheating the board is a requirement, but allowing the flux to "dry"
first is a no no...
Once dry there is not flux and it can't do the job it's meant to do.

Recently I'v seen a strange looking beast for sale at eBay, here's a
link to it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1727334195
It appears to apply hot air top and bottom, if this device works, it
would be easy to make...
Anyway, lately I've been using a regular iron, it's simply that much
easier !
I did get a vacuum pickup tool and it helps in placing integrated
circuits, not much use for C's and R's.
When it comes to the really tight packages, I simple flood with solder
and the use the Hakko desoldering tool
to remove the excess and inspect under the Bausch & Lomb at 32X for
shorts...
hansw



Steve Greenfield wrote:

> Yup, Hans, your page has been in the bookmarks of the Group home
> page for weeks!
>
> Hint, hint, everyone, check out the Bookmarks at the Group home
> page once in a while. Also a reminder to add useful links.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/links
>
> Do you think one of those warmer plates would work? Not a hotplate,
> I mean those glass warmer things. I was just figuring they are
> pretty cheap at the thrift store.
>
> Also a reminder that when you do this, the solder paste must be dry
> before you start trying to solder, or any fluids will boil and push
> the parts off the pads. Should be able to do that by warming it up
> on your pre-warmer for a bit.
>
> Steve Greenfield
>
> --- hans@... wrote:
> ? Ted,
> ? I made a Hot Air Pencil and published the idea several years ago
> ? at my
> ? web site.
> ? The single most important item is the heat exchanger. In my
> ? design I
> ? filled it with stainless steel
> ? wool and that made a vast difference.
> ? Pre-heating the board is required.
> ? http://hans-w.com/surfacem.htm
> ? hansw
>
>
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