With the lid off, it goes through okay. :)
I used Staples "picture paper" next time, still no transfer. Then, I
preheated the sandwich (top art, doubleclad, bottom art) with a clothes
iron before I ran it through six times, and got a pretty good transfer.
Looks like the doubleclad can't get hot enough in the laminator.
mm
Jeremy Taylor wrote:
>On the pl 2000 If you are havin binding problems, You can release the "spring" wires on the pull rollers (the back set), and it will run smoother. Becareful cause the gears are plastic and will strip easy, I found setting the heat to 3/4 max, and waitng about 10 minutes worked best, also the palin 24# 94 bright wihite paper worked the best for me. (for toner transfer)
> However The PL2000 absolutley sucks at laminating on real photo resist film, I have upraded to a Hotlam 320 works much better at that. Can be had on ebay for a little over $100 on ebay from time to time.
>
>JT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mickeym
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 10:58 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] PL2000
>
>
> I bought a PL2000 laminator and tried a couple of things.
>
> The first was a single sided copper board with a top layer parts
> outline, the pcb material was very thin (maybe 0.030) and I used
> magazine paper. It actually turned out pretty good, except large fill
> areas were weak and a couple of the traces smeared.
>
> The second was thick double sided copper (0.060) using magazine paper.
> It seemed to go okay at first, but it started to bind and damaged the
> paper. I ran it through a couple of times anyway to see how it might
> look, but no toner was transferred at all.
>
> I'll try photo glossy paper next, and will probably modify the case a
> little.
>
> MickeyM
>
>
>