I use Think and Tinker film, and had a hell of time till i did:
1) use a 10% methanol pre spary, 2) Got a good laminator 3) used a carrier
As a last resort- Bubbles can be popped, and then put the board back thru the laminator
I have not had bubbles or streaks or rips since I did the above
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Chapman
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Epson C84 printer?
Hello,
I purchased an Epson Stylus C84 some months ago (this unit is
amazingly quiet!). I'm using Newscraft LGN Imaging Paper (System
Facilities Inc., Syracuse, NY) to create artwork for double-sided
ferric chloride etching. (The package states this translucent laser
printer paper is for positive or negative images to use in exposing
screens or printing plates directly without film. Also, it
is "specially coated to improve toner adhesion," and
is "dimensionally stable under heat and pressure -- holds
registration in color separations.")
Additionally, I have a portable UV vacuum unit for processing the
photo resist-covered brass sheets I use. Then, it's on to a heated
power spray etching tank that I built (from Randy Gordon-Gilmore's
online plans).
I do not use this setup for PCBs; rather, we own a small startup fine
scale model production company. I'd like to ask a couple or three
questions, if I may:
1) The discussion here about "direct to plate" resist imaging, using
modified printers, applies only to single-sided plate preparation,
correct? I am having a devil of a time applying the photo resist
sheeting (from Think and Tinker) to the brass without bubbling (the
brass is cleaned meticulously according to instructions).
I'd sure love to discover an alternative to the photo resist method
I'm now using.
2) Might someone here be familiar with the C84 and its printing
resolution? I do not clearly understand printing resolution
interpolation. . . .
Thank you much,
-Brian
Brian Chapman
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
---
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