Hello,
Has anyone tried shellac? It is soluble in alcohol, in fact that's
what the dykem Dave mentioned is.
But I wouldn't use dykem as the pigments may create a problem.
Shellac is waterproof, and should make an excellent resist. It is
sold in different grades depending upon the level of refinement.
Ultra blonde is what you would want to use for this purpose, IMO.
The better grades are sold as flakes which are dissolved in alcohol.
You can mix it thick or thin, and woodworking stores as well as home
depot carry it. Get denatured alcohol at the same time.
It might even work in the thermal print heads.
BTW, it dries very fast.
I bet it will work in the print heads...
Ballendo
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...>
wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
wrote:
> > Stefan, Not to disagree with you, but I recently experimented
with
> > Epson 1520 which isa piezo printer and the printer doesn't like
> > anything different than original Epson printer. After using an
> > aftermarket ink the printer died and the printhead smoked (!)
>
> If the printhead blew magic smoke, that is going to be due to ink
> leaking into the electronics.
>
> I run a 3rd party pigmented ink in a 1520 for Tshirt imprinting.
Tens
> of thousands at least use 3rd party dye and pigmented and dye sub
> inkjet inks in Epson printers. They do tend to be touchier with non
> dye inks.
>
> Epson printheads are "solvent" but the solvent is alcohol. As
> discussed here and on the Epson printers list, one big problem with
> other solvents is they may attack other parts of the printhead like
> the plastic leading up to the piezo heads.
>
> Steve
>
> > I'will remind that my experience with floor wax killed few
printers.
> > The feeding of PCB is easy the problem si the ink. I suggest that
any
> > printer that has a printhead with the cartridge is better because
if
> > something goes wrong it can be replaced...
> >
> > Mike