Stefan, Not to disagree with you, but I recently experimented with
Epson 1520 which isa piezo printer and the printer doesn't like
anything different than original Epson printer. After using an
aftermarket ink the printer died and the printhead smoked (!)
I'will remind that my experience with floor wax killed few printers.
The feeding of PCB is easy the problem si the ink. I suggest that any
printer that has a printhead with the cartridge is better because if
something goes wrong it can be replaced...
Mike
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> A product that looks like what i have in mind,
> the table is moved, making the modification of the printer a very
easy
> task.
> I do not think we can get any more information on the printer,
global
> sources supplyers
> are not cooperative if you don't buy a huge number (though they
send me a
> magazine
> every few weeks - dunno why...)
> the thing to note is that it can use solvent and water based:
>
<
http://www.globalsources.com/am/article_id/9000000042033/page/showarticle?action=GetArticle>
>
>
> I think water based is not much good because it won't dry on metal.
> on the other hand acrylic paint would dry and would be water based,
> and acts as a resist.
>
>
> My best bet is still with the solvent type ink, like used by
permanent
> markers.
> Someone here wrote "a collegue put a inkjet head on a flatbed and
printed
> permanent marker ink (1:1 diluted with alcohol) and it worked".
> he wrote the marker was the same as they used to touchup boards.
> You can for sure find it in the archives.
>
> It is also quite well possible that the acrylic paint would work
with
> piezo,
> it did NOT work with bubblejet, which is obvious as the
heat "boiling" the
> water
> will make it clog terribly (which it did).
>
> I guess i MUST try it, it would be a bit easier than TT and the
quality
> would be better.
> Also i could possibly prevent buying a new laser (for resolution).
Inkjet
> printers
> are MUCH cheaper.
>
>
> ST