On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 19:00:17 -0000, grantfair2001
<
grant.fair@...> wrote:
> Hi Stefan (and listmembers)-
>
> In an earlier post you said you had tried the Staedtler ink with a
> plotter pen, and it had failed to plot to PCB very well. You advised
> against trying this.
>
> In spite of your experience, I would like to try this, and I am
> curious what you specifically used (so I can avoid your errors, if
> there are errors). The one reference on the web I could find said "You
> have to use a 757 PLx CS refillable plotter point.It is a
> Tungsten-carbide plotter point with a cross grove to allow for more
> ink flow. The ink is fairly thick." http://eeshop.unl.edu/pen.txt
>
> I plan to use Staedtler 485 523 sar-9 ink (this I have now). Finding
> an inexpensive grooved tungsten-carbide plotter pen is turning out to
> be a challenge. The cheapest I can find is about US$64, which is too
> expensive for experimenting. Anyway, what plotter pen did you use?
>
> Can anyone suggest an inexpensive source for this kind of pen?
>
> (I don't have a plotter but plan to make my own).
>
> Grant
don't build a plotter ;-) ask the local pc gurus, i got mine for free with
a load of pens.
However, there was no carbide pen included :-(.
I have read the same text you have read and tried to find a carbide pen.
finally got one at ebay, but not one, more like 10 or more instead at
ebay...
still for some eur 30 or so..
i have one set carbide tipped pens and one set steel pens.
only the smallest (0,18mm) has a X-groove. however this does not change
much in my opinion.
Of course i tried several of the pens with staedtler red ink.
The problem was that the ink layer is thinner than with a felt tip, the
trailing edge
of the metal tip seems to "scrape off" a part of the layer.
Finally i gave it up, i still have the 25x pocket microscope from this
ebay auction and
also some other stuff - so it was not too bad a deal.
The plotter pens i have are not even complete pens, they are only exchange
tips, but they
contain the complete mechanism with wire and spring and all. had to build
an adapter for them.
Of course you can try it, i can't stop you from wasting your time. maybe
if you don't want
to do more detailed work like smd it might just work.
You must use a low-acid etchant, like ferric cloride (i think) or CuCl
with low acid content.
One thing that definitely works is using a felt-tip pen to apply the ink.
but it is hard to get
any fine enough trace width with it.
Again, i can't stop you, i can only tell you that i had a perfect toner
transfer result (with things
like 6,66mil traces) with WAY lower time and WAY lower money investment.
I'm still planning on setting up the plotter for component layout one day.
(the problem with that is that i need to update my librarys as i never
payd any attention to the
component outline..)
If you really want to do it get a plotter (dont build) and buy a expensive
pen,
then try, fail, and finally become a toner transfer convert like me ;-).
If everything works out perfectly you will still have design limitations,
like no holes in the
pads, limited track width, etc... and plotting will be MUCH slower than
making a toner transfer.
Well, a teacher once told me the experience is all that counts, not the
result, so i really
shouldn't try to stop you experimenting.
Best of luck, you will need it..
And don't forget to use a "soft" etchant... no 35%Hcl with a load of H2O2
;-)
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
ST