--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
wrote:
> Dave,
>
> This is for the bakelite (white) or phenolic(light to medium brown,
> as sold by radio shack) boards, correct?
>
> Because the epoxy based boards will make short work of destroying a
> regular milling bit...
>
> Ballendo
Both.
I like the bakelite boards because I can peal the large areas, but am
now down to FR-4.
(anyone know a good source for bakelite at low prices?)
The routing bits I have been using are regrinds, the 50 for $15.00
variety and the edges are very good.
On the boards I cut yestarday, I did a final inspection to see if I
made any errors. I could not determine which were my cut edges and
which were factory edges. It just doens't get any better than that.
Of course the bits will wear out, but getting 15 bits in the box is
not too bad. Some are 50 mil. some 62 and some 90 something.
Dave
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Mucha"
<dave_mucha@y...>
> wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ggindele" <ggindele@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > I wonder if anyone can recommend a dremel bit for cutting
> panelized
> > > PCB. What's better, a routing bit or the cutting wheel?
> >
> > I use a cutter that looks like a milling cutter. It cuts so
clean
> > that the edges of the boards I cut yestarday are identicle to the
> > factory edge.
> >
> > I need to cut odd shapes in boards and notches for things like
> > elongated holes for power connectors or reliefs for getting
around
> > mounting holes or standoffs.
> >
> > On some projects, you can use a Vee shaped tool and etch a
grouve,
> > then snap the board on the grouve.
> >
> > Dave