--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> wrote:
> Let me second that
> Office Max Maxbright 94 /24lb Inkjet paper, same deal about $5.00
for 500.
> It actually the same stuff as office depot, jut a diff package.
Hmm, we don't have any of those stores here in vermont.Or at least
none close by. You would think that for such an expensive state to
live in we would have more stuff to show for. Anyways, I'll see if
they have anything close to that at staples and give it a try. Now,
This morning I tried a small piece of left over PnP paper and it
worked pretty good exept for a few smears because I press the iron
too hard. I also tried another piece of photo printer paper but this
time I did not soak it in water. I had better result without the
water but I was still mising some sections of the drawing.
Again, I'll give the inkjet paper a try and hope it does well. I
mean for the proce is really good. However, this morning I tried a
pice of lestover PnP paper and besides minor smear in one section it
transfered really good. What I'm saying is that if its a lot of work
to transfer the traces using other papers then I'll just stick to the
PnP. I mean is expensive but if it works?!! However, I won't give up
on other papers becuase the price and availability are just too good
to ignore.
>
> JT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 8:33 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2
>
>
> > yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper. 92 white, 24
lb.
> > Look in the database section of this group for the exact details
but
> > I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work. The good
> > news is it costs about $5/500 sheets.
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thank you,
> > >
> > > now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular white
> > paper?
> > >
> > > Another important question. Onced I finished I put the
leftover
> > > FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a little bit
> > left
> > > in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with lots of
> > > water. My question is should I neutralize that little leftover
with
> > > something. I mean I want to do things right and protect the
> > > enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do is
take my
> > > ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since is for
non
> > > comercial use then its free.
> > >
> > > > Congrats on progress. It is very satisfying to see that
pattern
> > > come
> > > > out on the copper.
> > > >
> > > > You really dont need to use PnP. Try, instead, using a decent
> > > > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special coatings, ...).
Use
> > a
> > > > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of
pressure. I
> > > use
> > > > kids construction paper between the iron and the transfer
paper
> > to
> > > > even out the irregularities. Once you are done with the
> > ironing,
> > > > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the board/paper
until
> > it
> > > > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure good toner
> > > > adhesion to the copper. this process is highly reliable for
me
> > and
> > > > the last few boards I did required NO touching up.
> > > >
> > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty good. I
> > > though
> > > > it
> > > > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most people
> > > advice
> > > > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in the
pads
> > > did
> > > > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because there
is
> > no
> > > > > copper there.
> > > > >
> > > > > Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I found out
that
> > > my
> > > > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the pads
with
> > a
> > > > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets left.
So
> > > > after
> > > > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud you can
use
> > > > staple
> > > > > photo paper.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
> > > > >
> > > > > Now I tried using this process on another blank PCB. I
dodn't
> > > > know
> > > > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the toner
but
> > a
> > > > lot
> > > > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at least 5
> > times
> > > > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. I
would
> > > like
> > > > to
> > > > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you can get
> > 200
> > > > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I cant
make
> > > it
> > > > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did
> > > > >
> > > > > I made the print out on the glossy side. I preheated the
> > > copper
> > > > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of paper
on
> > > top
> > > > of
> > > > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the iron.I
Iron
> > > that
> > > > > thing left and right and any which way possible aplying
various
> > > > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water then I
> > gave
> > > it
> > > > a
> > > > > hot water bath. Now the hot water was not boiling just as
hot
> > as
> > > I
> > > > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the paper off
and
> > > > only
> > > > > a few traces stuck.
> > > > >
> > > > > In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie in my
> > board
> > > > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 tries to
get
> > > the
> > > > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too well.
The
> > > > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was a
mirror
> > > > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with the
photo
> > > > paper
> > > > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is
expensive.
> >
> >
> >
> >
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