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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2

From: "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@...>
Date: 2004-03-28

Let me second that
Office Max Maxbright 94 /24lb Inkjet paper, same deal about $5.00 for 500.
It actually the same stuff as office depot, jut a diff package.

JT

----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil" <phil1960us@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 8:33 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2


> yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper. 92 white, 24 lb.
> Look in the database section of this group for the exact details but
> I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work. The good
> news is it costs about $5/500 sheets.
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular white
> paper?
> >
> > Another important question. Onced I finished I put the leftover
> > FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a little bit
> left
> > in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with lots of
> > water. My question is should I neutralize that little leftover with
> > something. I mean I want to do things right and protect the
> > enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do is take my
> > ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since is for non
> > comercial use then its free.
> >
> > > Congrats on progress. It is very satisfying to see that pattern
> > come
> > > out on the copper.
> > >
> > > You really dont need to use PnP. Try, instead, using a decent
> > > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special coatings, ...). Use
> a
> > > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of pressure. I
> > use
> > > kids construction paper between the iron and the transfer paper
> to
> > > even out the irregularities. Once you are done with the
> ironing,
> > > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the board/paper until
> it
> > > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure good toner
> > > adhesion to the copper. this process is highly reliable for me
> and
> > > the last few boards I did required NO touching up.
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty good. I
> > though
> > > it
> > > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most people
> > advice
> > > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in the pads
> > did
> > > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because there is
> no
> > > > copper there.
> > > >
> > > > Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I found out that
> > my
> > > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the pads with
> a
> > > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets left. So
> > > after
> > > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud you can use
> > > staple
> > > > photo paper.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
> > > >
> > > > Now I tried using this process on another blank PCB. I dodn't
> > > know
> > > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the toner but
> a
> > > lot
> > > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at least 5
> times
> > > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. I would
> > like
> > > to
> > > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you can get
> 200
> > > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I cant make
> > it
> > > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did
> > > >
> > > > I made the print out on the glossy side. I preheated the
> > copper
> > > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of paper on
> > top
> > > of
> > > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the iron.I Iron
> > that
> > > > thing left and right and any which way possible aplying various
> > > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water then I
> gave
> > it
> > > a
> > > > hot water bath. Now the hot water was not boiling just as hot
> as
> > I
> > > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the paper off and
> > > only
> > > > a few traces stuck.
> > > >
> > > > In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie in my
> board
> > > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 tries to get
> > the
> > > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too well. The
> > > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was a mirror
> > > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with the photo
> > > paper
> > > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is expensive.
>
>
>
>
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