yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper. 92 white, 24 lb.
Look in the database section of this group for the exact details but
I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work. The good
news is it costs about $5/500 sheets.
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
<geovar13@h...> wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
wrote:
>
> Thank you,
>
> now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular white
paper?
>
> Another important question. Onced I finished I put the leftover
> FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a little bit
left
> in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with lots of
> water. My question is should I neutralize that little leftover with
> something. I mean I want to do things right and protect the
> enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do is take my
> ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since is for non
> comercial use then its free.
>
> > Congrats on progress. It is very satisfying to see that pattern
> come
> > out on the copper.
> >
> > You really dont need to use PnP. Try, instead, using a decent
> > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special coatings, ...). Use
a
> > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of pressure. I
> use
> > kids construction paper between the iron and the transfer paper
to
> > even out the irregularities. Once you are done with the
ironing,
> > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the board/paper until
it
> > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure good toner
> > adhesion to the copper. this process is highly reliable for me
and
> > the last few boards I did required NO touching up.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty good. I
> though
> > it
> > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most people
> advice
> > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in the pads
> did
> > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because there is
no
> > > copper there.
> > >
> > > Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I found out that
> my
> > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the pads with
a
> > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets left. So
> > after
> > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud you can use
> > staple
> > > photo paper.
> > >
> > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
> > >
> > > Now I tried using this process on another blank PCB. I dodn't
> > know
> > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the toner but
a
> > lot
> > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at least 5
times
> > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. I would
> like
> > to
> > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you can get
200
> > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I cant make
> it
> > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did
> > >
> > > I made the print out on the glossy side. I preheated the
> copper
> > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of paper on
> top
> > of
> > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the iron.I Iron
> that
> > > thing left and right and any which way possible aplying various
> > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water then I
gave
> it
> > a
> > > hot water bath. Now the hot water was not boiling just as hot
as
> I
> > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the paper off and
> > only
> > > a few traces stuck.
> > >
> > > In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie in my
board
> > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 tries to get
> the
> > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too well. The
> > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was a mirror
> > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with the photo
> > paper
> > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is expensive.