Les,
So the "cupric" part is coming from the 1st board being etched?
I looked at the links section as suggested. Had seen all that before.
(I remember thinking too much work compared to just buying the
persulphate, and it was dark like FeCl.)
What prompted my interest in this thread was the muriatic is clear,
and the h202 is clear, (no mention of cupric at all) so I thought it
was a clear process... Now I'm confused.
If I use mostly HCL and a bit of H202, and put my board in, will it
etch well? Will it stay clear?
From what you've written above, I would think that the h202 is just a
means to get oxygen into the HCL, so a bubbler/sparger and HCL is the
ticket? (with the usual concerns about muriatic vapors)
Thank you in advance for any clarification,
Ballendo
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Les Newell <les@l...> wrote:
> This is actually cupric chloride etching. Once you have the etchant
> started you don't even need the H2O2. Just bubbling air though it
for a
> couple of hours does the trick. Do a google search for cupric
chloride
> etchant.
>
> I use it and it works well. It does not stain like FeCl and doesn't
> smell as bad either. The down sides are that it takes slightly
longer to
> etch and the etchant will only do a couple of boards before it
needs
> regenerating by bubbling air through it or adding H2O2.
>
> Les
>
>
> ballendo wrote:
> > In Homebrew_PCBs, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> >
> >>Get yourself some muratic acid and H2O2 and then etch the boards.
> >
> >
> >
> > This is new to me. Is there a reason it doesn't get mentioned
more
> > often? We talk about FECL and the two persulphates... But not
this.
> >
> > What are it's good and bad points? Besides being really cheap and
> > widely available<G>
> >
> > Thank you in advance,
> >
> > Ballendo
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and
files:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >