Hi Hans,
At this point I think any type board will work better than
what I am using. I found a source for 4" X 6" boards. All my designs
fit on a 4" X 6" board. If I were to use a larger board I could use
an autorouter to design my boards. I don't like the way the programs
use a two sided board when a single sided board with a few jumpers
will work.
What has done me in is I started making the traces share
borders. This cuts down on milling time and tool wear. The down side
is I obsess on the layout for days. An other problem is when I design
a 4 axis board, people stop buying the 3 axis. This has also happen
with some of my machines. I never seem to even break even. I loose
money on every board I sell. If I don't count the time spent I make a
couple of dollars. This is more than a hobby!
John
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., hans@c... wrote:
> John,
> OK how about paper board. !
> hansw
>
> crankorgan wrote:
>
> > Hans,
> > I use micrograin carbide Mechanical Etching bits. Drilling is
> > one thing. Speed can be lower than 16,000 rpms. Dragging the bit
> > through the epoxy for 800 inches is something else. I contacted
the
> > place you are a consultant for. They were unable to supply a
milling
> > bit at that time for less than Think and Tinkers price. I tried
all
> > kinds of tricks. I think if somebody made a different kind of
board.
> > Something that is good for 50 volts or less. Use plastic instead
of
> > glass epoxy.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., hans@c... wrote:
> > > John,
> > > OK ... I used to have the same problem with drills until I
started
> > using
> > > solid carbide, It seems they never wear out.
> > > Have you tried a 0.031" ball nosed mill in solid carbide, I feel
> > sure it
> > > will last a long long time...
> > > Price is not that bad...
> > >
> >
http://www.drilltechnology.com/drill/endmill/Micro_EndMills_2_Flutes_B
> >
> > all_Nose.html
> > >
> > > hansw
> > >
> > > crankorgan wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hans.
> > > > When you mill a board, you hit the board material. The
copper
> >
> > > > is soft. The glass epoxy board is like sand paper to the bit.
I
> > > > used to coat the board with motor oil before milling. It only
> > helped
> > > > to keep the dust down. Lets face it, there is no easy way to
make
> > > > PCBoards. Every method has its drawback.
> > > >
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., hans@c... wrote:
> > > > > Alan,
> > > > > The Gerber files include "empty" layers. The Modular design
is
> > a two
> > > >
> > > > > sided PCB, simply discard the empty layers.
> > > > > BTW I do not mill boards it's far too mauch work, I use Pre
> > > > Sensitized
> > > > > stock and exposure for 120 second using a GE 500W bulb,
> > > > > then developing in a solution of Red Devil Lye, etch with
Ferric
> >
> > > > > Chloride, the same Ferric Chloride I have been suing for 8
> > years !,
> > > > most
> > > > > people do not understand it, and they throw it away far too
> > soon.
> > > > Heck I
> > > > > even use the same Red Devil Lye mixture until it's so green
I
> > can
> > > > hardly
> > > > > see the PCB developing.
> > > > > .... I can make a two side board (without drilling) in
about 45
> > > > > minutes... 5 mill traces at 8 mill spacing are normal.
> > > > > BTW mill bits, I wonder why mill bits wear out so quickly,
> > after all
> > > >
> > > > > it's only copper! Could it be because people run the bit
dry ?
> > May
> > > > be
> > > > > people are not buying real mill bits...
> > > > > I have a link at my site for a source of really good quality
> > mill
> > > > bits,
> > > > > size down to 0.002" ( yes! 2 mil ) But 2 mil bits are not
that
> > > > cheap....
> > > > >
> > > > > hansw
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Alan Marconett KM6VV wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Hans,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > That's quite a nice project! I think I counted 8 layers
in
> > one
> > > > of the
> > > > > >
> > > > > > GBR files! And with over 20 apertures, I'll have to get a
> > parser
> > > > for
> > > > > > the header working! I think I can pick a layer or two
with
> > pads
> > > > and
> > > > > > traces, and manually build an aperture table for some
simple
> > tests
> > > >
> > > > > > with
> > > > > > my code. I was able to see a lot of the "foil" layers by
> > using
> > > > some
> > > > > > aperture sizes I had defined previously for another
(Eagle)
> > demo
> > > > > > board.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks for the URL!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Alan KM6VV
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > hans@c... wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > crankorgan wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > What I find is people are unable to find anything on
> > > > > > > > the internet. Maybe they use the wrong search engine.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I posted a complete design with PCB layout files and
> > schematics
> > > > at
> > > > > > my
> > > > > > > web site, during
> > > > > > > the past years I have received 100's or emails from
people
> > that
> > > > have
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > successfully built the
> > > > > > > Modular Design, with or without the "Smart Current
Monitor".
> >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The design is Free... I do not charge anything for it..
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > When I get time I'm going to post a new design complete
with
> >
> > > > EAGLE
> > > > > > > files...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hans W
> > > > > > > http://hans-w.com
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
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