>
> Not sure about the more modern stuff, but plenty of older printers
> etc had a
> solid steel core for the platen. Strip the rubber off and one may work
> fine,
> and another with the rubber for the top roller.
I think you will need heat resistant rubber, like in a laser printer fuser.
but this may still be not enough, maybe one can mold it with heat resistant
silicone.
> Also there is always the frying pan dip soldering, it works well
> enough for
> soldering components and should really do well enough for most people's
> solder
> plating too for low quantities. A friend has a commercial machine built
> around
> the same basic principle, it works very well for both uses.
I wonder if there is not too much tin built up on the tracks.
more description please.
ST
>
> Alan
>