> And LOL yes acetone is magic stuff. Try using a plastic pad and
> alcohol to
> clean the toner from a board if you haven't already, it'll give you a
> whole new
> level of appreciation for what a joy acetone is to use. Acetone
> converts what
> seems like hours into just seconds, who knew it was a time machine
> component?
>
> Alan
>
If you really think so...
a) it is absorbed through the skin (even through some gloves) and poisonous
b) it evaporates very quickly
c) it attacks plastic
d) it evaporates out of the closed can (the can it was sold in !!!)
e) it is not too cheap
f) we have seen at least one case where the acetone attacked the epoxy
and the toner rubbed in smearing it all over.
I use simple laquer thinner.
not quite as fast with evaporation, much cheaper, maybe as toxic, i dunno
(but the warnings
are less).
it still attacks plastic (take alcohol if you need to prevent that - but
remember the toner is plastic).
it has never attacked the epoxy so far.
I liked acetone very much too in the past.
but now my opinion is different - at that price it simply is not
allowed to evaporate out of a properly closed tin.
alcohol is no good in rubbing off toner - because it doesn't attack
plastic.
i tried it - it was close to rubbing with water.
really do try paint thinner, it is working ok....
another hint:
i scrape off my toner with a flat edge.
like when the board doesn't work out right after fusing you can scrape it
off all at once.
I only scrape it off a completed board if the traces are not too thin, but
with 0.5mm it hasn't
taken the trace with it.
this is much quicker than all the rubbing (but you might need a light
sweep over it if you miss
some tiny bits with scraping)
just another opinion...
ST