Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

I just have to say...WOW! FINALLY!!! After so many attempts with
different papers, methods, and whatnots, I finally have something
I'm proud to show off.
Stephan, you were absolutely right, a printer's fuser works
incredibly well. I did some tests on the fuser I am using (from an
old HP LaserJet IIIp), and found that a temp of 180 deg C
corresponded to around 1.65K of resistance from the internal
thermostat. I ran the temp up no higher than that after my initial
experience with parts melting.
I scrubbed the board with a Scotch Brite pad under running water
before hand, and didn't use alcohol or anything else chemical...just
a rinse in water to prep. Then, I printed my circuit with some of
the cheapest photo paper I could find - it's listed in our group's
papers area of the files section - HammerMill Jet Print Photo Multi-
Project Photo Paper, Gloss Finish, Medium Weight.
Since I didn't have the gearing intact from the printer anymore, I
let the fuser heat, then unplugged it, and pushed the board through
by hand. (Only about half of it was needed for my circuit design,
the other half was a handle). It was actually cool if you grabbed
it by the sides.
I went VERY slow through the fuser. For my 4 inch long design, I
stopped half way through, after about 15 seconds, to re-heat it,
then continue on. After 3 back and forth passes (in each direction,
making 6 exposures to the heat), I flipped the board and did 3 more,
for a total of 12. One roller is hard, while the other is softer
rubber. I think it's the rubber side that does most of the
transfering, so that was why the flipping.
After that, I put the board immediately in cold water and let it
soak for around 15 minutes.
Success. I put some photos in the photo area.

Thanks everybody for all your help. This is great.

-Josh
Pullman, WA