> > Two problems I havent been able to overcome:
> > I can't get a good layout transfer to the copper side of the
board-
> > including the component side of a DS board. Seems the paper won't
> > conform to the uneven surface.
>
> Are you using a clothes iron? What kind of printer are you using? I
am only
> new to this but I have a feeling that the type of toner has quite an
> influence on the consistency of the transfer as well as paper. I
don't do
I'm using a HP Laserjet 5M, with what I beleive is the original
cartridge (bought it used, not sure). I started with an iron, but
recently bought a heavy laminator off e-bay. My TT etch resist
improved significantly that day. Like others I've tried dozens of
papers. The best I've found for resist layer is magazine (mine's
a "Hobby People" catalog - www.hobbypeople.net) and for component
print / front panels / general artwork I use the "JetPRINT PHOTO
Multi-Project paper". It releases FAR easier than any other paper
I've tried and leaves a very clean transfer. But it's not good for
resist because it leaves some small pinholes that etch through.
My troubles only apply to the component print layer on the etched
side of the board. I can get a nice clean print on an all copper
area, and it works fine on a no-copper area, but near an area with
traces it doesn't transfer well at all. I'm pretty sure this is due
to the unevenness of the area preventing the toner from making
contact evenly and I don't expect that it's "fixable".
> much surface prep at all, just a scrub with a cheap kitchen pad
(which isn't
> very rough) under some hot water and the toner still transfers
perfectly
> with no dropouts. Maybe I'm just lucky but using what I have here
and not
> even going to any special effort I've managed to etch a few perfect
boards
> without dramas.
>
> Have fun,
> Dean
My surface prep is about the same, green scotchbrite, a little IPA,
dry with a clean paper towel. Sometimes I use a scotchbrite type
wheel in my dremmel for realy oxidized board. I used to remove the
toner with Lacuer thinner, it's fast but I found out it can attack
the fiberglass and that's what was causing my dark streaking. Now I
use a medical adhisive remover wipe with citrus oil. It's not as
fast, but it works well and isn't as nasty as some of those other
solvents.
-Denny