Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

Hi all,

Good news, the Fuser works perfectly.

I have set it to 160 degree C (measured) and it worked not very well the
first time.
(i let the board through maybe 6 times and only in one orientation, back
and forth (hand drive).
each pass was about 7 seconds (one direction) )

about half of the tracks did come off after soaking.
BAD.

I did decide it may need longer fusing.
cleaned, printed, starting over again.

10 passes this time.
VERY slow, 10-15 seconds one pass.
i put it through a different side first each time.

took some time, BUT it worked perfectly.
not a single piece of toner did come off.
even the board outline is complete this time which i never achieved using
the iron.
(the last time using the iron i decided i make a second board outline just
outside
the first, hoping it will take the damage.. - wrong guess, both went off.)


so, the short story:

A fuser works VERY WELL.
i took the unit out of a ricoh copier.

I need to make a motor for it now, with slow gearing.
and i need to put the thermostat in a housing.

(does anyone know if it harms the quartz heater lamp running
on "orange" half power, because then i will add some hysteresis
to get it either full on of full off....??)


If anyone is still using a iron -> get yourself a fuser or a laminator.
it IS worth the effort, i had strong doubt but the result is convincing.


there is about 10 to 20% widening of the tracks, i may just draw thinner
ones
or maybe play with the pressure springs. they are on the front lifting
the bearings of the lower roller with levers, easily acessible, i could
even use a adjusting screw (for different board sizes)...




ST