Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

----- Original Message -----
From: "tboneuk_2000" <a_reynolds@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 1:07 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] (unknown)


> Hello all,
> Wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction.
> To find the correct exposure time I made up a strip of inkjet
> transparent film with 10 identical dill sockets plus some lines,
> placed this over a strip of "fotoboard 2" board (with glass holding
> it all together) and placed it under a 2∗ 8W uv light for between 4
> and 13 mins (uncovering each dill socket every minuite). I made up
> the developing solution ratio 10:1, and placed the board in a glass
> dish containg developer.
> After about 1 min I started to see my image appear on the board and
> a bluish residue around the exposed print. This seemed ok but did
> not develop any more as left it in the solution for a couple of more
> mins, then the print slowely started to dissapear to nothing. I
> tried etching anyway but all I got was a nice clean board striped of
> all copper and no tracks/sockets at all.
> At least I know how to etch the board but I am confused why the
> image started to develop and then dissapeared.
>
> In case it helps I used fotoboard 2, pcb developer and pcb etchent
> from maplins ( the products are made by chiltern and I had a 1:1
> ratio of etchent to water)

Try agitating the developer by rocking the container continuously. It sounds
as if it was too strong, anyway - Fotoboard 2 uses half-strength developer.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
Email: aqzf13@...
My low-cost Philips LPC210x ARM development system:
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/lpc2104.html