Are you using an iron or a laminator? I’m finding I get very good results with iron if I do the prep properly, but there’s always that one spot that no matter how much heat or pressure you put on it, the toner doesn’t stick.
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 7:29 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Vintage PCB toner transfer problems
Genuine or non oem HP toner works for me. For the pitting problem I
transfer craft metallic foil on top of the toner before etching. It's a
well known practice and reliable.
Rather than using acetone or citronella to prepare/clean the copper I
use 220 grit sandpaper and an iso-propyl wipe which makes the toner
'grip' the oil free copper. Even fingerprints can interfere so handle
the edges of the PCB. As a test I polished/lapped copper and tried the
identical transfer with poor results all other things being the same.
Also, before I did the metal foiling, I used to use a silver sharpie to
'fill' in the toner transfer for any breaks or potential pitting and
then etch.
I have done literally hundreds of double sided boards and even boards
for RF use to 1Ghz with toner transfer. It works.
Ancel
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