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Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Metal laminator gears

From: "Tony Smith" <ajsmith1968@...>
Date: 2016-12-27

Mark Lerman did the DLP, I figure if you're going to futz about rebuilding a laminator with custom gearing and then futz about even more adding foil and then futz about touching up the pinholes in that, you might as well hack a $50 printer in the first place.

You can't use a fuser from a laser printer because the rollers aren't far enough apart to allow for a PCB, and can't easily be adjusted.

However if you're set on modifying a laminator, modifying a fuser would be less work - the parts are already rated to handle the heat.

Note that Lerman's DLP method doesn't use the fuser anyway, the toner on the copper board needs to be fused after printing. Someone figured out suspending it above some acetone will cause the acetone vapours to fuse the toner after a few minutes, at which point you're ready to etch.

Tony



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, 27 December 2016 3:00 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Metal laminator gears
>
> Harvey,
>
> That’s what DLP (Direct Laser Printing) PCB is all about.
> There was a lot of messages about this technique a while back.
> I forgot who was the main poster about it, but there were description for
> modifying the laser to direct print the artwork on the copper clad board.
>
> You might want to search through the archive for DLP.
>
> Just my $0.02,
> Jean-Paul
> N1JPL
>
>
>
> > On Dec 26, 2016, at 10:20 AM, Harvey White madyn@...
> [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> >
> > On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 22:43:13 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> > >The Harbor Freight laminator doesn't get hot enough for the Brother
> > >toner. In the process of raising the temperature I managed to soften
> > >the gears to the point where they no longer turned the rollers.
> > >Replacing the plastic gears with metal ones solves that problem, but
> > >only if the plastic supports for the shafts are made of a higher temperature
> plastic.
> > >
> > >I am not familiar with the GBC laminator, except through reading
> > >about it here in the group, so I don't know about what kind of gears it has.
> > >If it works, don't fix it.
> >
> > Has anyone considered buying a junked laser printer from a thrift
> > store, and using the fuser assembly?
> >
> > It would need some mechanical and electrical work, but that's what
> > you're talking about anyway, just perhaps a bit more....
> >
> > (the other) Harvey
> >
> > >
> > >Harvey
> > >
> > >
> > >On 12/25/2016 8:35 PM, me@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
> > >>
> > >> What is the advantage to swapping out gears? I have been using a
> > >> GBC Heatseal H212 for a number of years now with no issues. The
> > >> only modification I made was to remove some guides to allow the PCB
> > >> to pass through.
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Jean-Paul Louis <louijp@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
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