On Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:41:15 -0000, aussiedude36 <
aussiedude@...>
wrote:
> I have been using this method for a while now with pretty good results.
>
> Points to note though, Make sure PCB is really clean, I use a green
> scouring type pad and water to scrub the board firts then wipe with
> alcohol or thinners prior to transferring.
I use 600 grit sandpaper and then wipe with with thinner or alcohol. very
important point i agree.
>
> I bought a laminator from this website http://www.dynaart.com/index.html
> and it works great, I also found a similar one at an office supply for
> 1/2 the price. At the same website they sell a roll of green plastic that
> you transfer on after the toner to help seal the toner...it really works.
>
> I have had fair results with their toner transfer paper, but am not
> totally satisified although it could be my printer, not the paper.
>
> I am using thier roll of white plastic to transfer a psuedo "silk screen"
> component legend and I absoloutely love it.
>
> Sorry if this is starting to sound like an advertisment but I am overall
> quite pleased with my results.
>
> They have small cans of translucent green paint that acts like a green
> soldermask, you spray it on the copper side, wait for it to dry and it
> becomes a solder mask, you can soder right through it at the pads and the
> remainder remains to protect the copper tracks.
Well, then it is no solder mask if you can solder right through it ;-) .
>
> I am goin to try different printers and also maybee the magazine paper
> for toner transfers as Their TT paper gets expensive after a while.
>
> Hope this helps.
> David
>
>
I'm quite pleased with my results too.
With the genuine toner there are no problems at all.
No pinholes (pin is the wrong word, much bigger) like with the rebuilt
toner.
I put not much emphasis on ironing now.
I just put it on for a few seconds to get the paper stuck and the board
hot.
then i go over the board with the curved edge.
The resolution is more than i ever asked for.
two tracks between 1206 smd resistor pads is no problem at all.
I'm sure even 3 would work properly.
I can use 10mil with, which i hardly used with the photo process and
routing is much easier.
I still have to experiment with toner density setting, how it affects the
quality.
i want to get it down as much as possible to prevent spreading completely.
I didn't make component legend until now.
I don't know if it will look good with my paper (white residue).
Maybe baking would make it look better, or maybe a quick wipe with solvent.
Another option which i am sure would work is a coat of clear laquer.
The white residue only shows when dry, if wet the transfer is completely
black.
Clear laquer would make it look like wet permanently and prevent scratching
off too.
I will have to test this. BAD THING: My libraries are not quite up to the
standard with component ledgend.
i never cared. Will need rework there.
I also went back to more smd now.
The "steel wire clamping device" is GREAT.
its a lot faster to make, not to mention the size.
no drilling, no bending and snipping off leads, no hold down properly on
the other side while it gets damn hot....
Next thing:
Off to the DIY shop with me and buy some acryl glass to make a permanent
tank.
I want a sealed unit where i can store the etchant in. i'm sick of tray
etching.
Merry Christmas to everyone, and thanks for all the help.
Stefan