The fuser is not used in the hack, so when the pcb comes out of theprinter the toner is held in place by static electricity. You can easilywipe if off with a paper towel, but it is held very tightly, andyou can tap it quite vigorously without dislodging the toner.
What I do is put a small amount of acetone in a closed container andsuspend the pcb over the vapor. It will fuse to the copper in 2-3minutes, but you leave in there for 15-20 minutes, the toner softens thenflows a tiny bit to cover any pinholes, then fuses very tightly to thecopper.
Mark
At 03:45 PM 10/26/2016, you wrote:
what does thatmean.... "acetone vapor to fuse"
On 10/26/2016 03:14 PM, Mark Lermanmlerman@...[Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
It's my Instructable they're quoting. I paid $25 each for a couple ofthese little printers, including shipping from Newegg. They conversion isrelatively straightforward, and works very well. Anytime I want to do aboard, I just pull it off the shelf and print. Works every time, no fussor mess. I use acetone vapor to fuse the toner to the copper, so nolaminator necessary.
Mark
At 05:27 PM 10/25/2016, you wrote:
Anyone else see this Hackadaypost about hacking a Pantum 2500 to direct print toner on PCBs?
http://hackaday.com/2016/10/25/want-to-make-a-pcb-the-pantum-knows/
The Pantum 2502W is under $40 with free shipping on Amazon and claims1200x1200dpi resolution.
https://www.amazon.com/Pantum-P2502W-Wireless-Monochrome-Printer/dp/B00N517VDK
Steve Greenfield AE7HDhttp://www.linkedin.com/in/stevenjgreenfield