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Alan,
The hard rubber brayer is the one. Got it on ebay for a few bucks.
I really soak down the back of the paper and let it sit for a while before I roll it. If it dries out, I put some more of the mixture on it. Using a rounded object gave me partial results and some encouragement when I got a partial transfer that way, mostly in the middle. The brayer is good because it gets the pressure across the whole board, not just the middle. Another thing I noticed is that some of my boards are slightly warped. If you observe that, either skip using the board, or make sure you roll parallel the warp, not across it. The board needs to be a bit larger than the circuit layout to make sure that you can roll over the edges without running off the board close to the edge of the artwork. I use hot glue to stick the board onto a larger wooden board that I can keep from moving around. When I am done with the transfer, and ready to put the board in the water, I pop the board off the bigger board.
It's clear from the partial transfers that you are getting, that you are getting into the ball park with the mixture. You might try two parts acetone to one part denatured alcohol, to see if that works better.
Regards
Harvey
Tried another transfer using ORACAL 651, using a mixture of half
acetone and half denatured alcohol Followed Harvey's directions
and burnished the artwork backside with the backside of a fork
following DuWayne. The artwork did not transfer.
Tried it again with the same mixture. This time I put the copper
clad board between two steel plates that I marked with a red Sharpie.
I squeezed them together for ten minutes using two medium C clamps.
This time about a third of the toner transfer from the artwork to
the copper clad--in the middle of the board. PARTIAL SUCCESS...
Next time, try applying pressure with a pipe clamp. Better yet,
get a 6-inch brayer. I see the brayers come in either hard rubber
or soft rubber. Which kind did you get, Harvey? I've never used one.