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I just bought one of those Apache A113Ps off ebay for $175US – I read they do foil transfers reasonably well also?
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 12:20 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hot PCB toner Transfer
Yellow ebay toner transfer paper is fine & convenient. Magazine paper is
ok as well, takes some soaking to get off, but heavy colour photos
(such as in Astronomy mag) can compromise the transfer, so u want more
text mags.
In both cases, sticking the transfer paper onto regular printer paper
with masking tape and offsetting the print down a bit prevents the laser
roller from getting paper jams from the thinner transfer paper.
I optimize my yellow toner transfer paper use by printing the outer
dimension of the PCB on a plain sheet first, then sticking a correctly
sized piece or cutting of toner transfer paper in the correct spot
(masking tape) and feeding the print through a second time. This time
with all the copper and silk screens layers active so they print on the
transfer paper alone.
HP1102W printer with cheap , non oem Toner works fine at about 330 to
340°F via my automated multipass APache Al13P process. I do 10 mil
traces reliably. I can turn a single sided board around in about 10
mins. Double sided takes longer due to registration drill holes and
alignments.
Regular craft laser foil (laminator) is used to finalize the board
before etching for solid pours and colored silk screens.
Cutting PCB can be done with a carbide tile cutting scribe or a 4"
diamond bladed table saw which is very precise for FR-1 PCB. FR-1 snaps
badly from scribing.
Proxxon tooling for drilling are much better than Dremel. Saves a lot
on not breaking carbide bits!. I can carve slots with my Proxxon
drill/press and a 1/16" carbide bit in the PCB.
Ancel
-- Cecil - k5nwahttp://thepartsplace.k5nwa.com/