Brad
Try putting the board and paper in the freezer for 20 minutes before you try to peel. Works for me.
Malcolm
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 5/30/16, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, May 30, 2016, 5:32 PM
Thanks guys. Yeah, I’m kind of suspicious
about my toner here. I’ve noticed before that, say,
original HP toner tends to have a more ‘shiny’
appearance than the ‘compatible’ stuff does. I assumed
there was something different there. I’m getting probably 75%
transferred after 10 minutes.. and it’s got great adhesion
once it does and is nice and crisp – but I just can’t
seem to get all of it. I’m wondering if my magazine
(Macleans) pages aren’t up to snuff. Or my
iron. Brad From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 8:48 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First
attempt at toner transfer The acetone or alcohol should
not add any oil or other unwanted organic material to the
board. As long as all of the cleaner is removed from the
board I'm not sure there is any benefit of using acetone
other than helping remove traces of water quicker.
You should clean the board
shortly before you use it. If it sits around or a day or
maybe less depending on the environment it will pick up a
film of organic material and will also tend to oxidize.
As to toner, you may need to
experiment. Most people say that Brother brand printers do
not work because toner has a higher melting point. The
general consensus is that toner from the original
manufacturer tends to work well. Replacement cartridges from
other sources may or may not work well. The claim is some
suppliers use less plastic in their toner mix (the plastic
is what gets melted and binds and fuses the toner to the
paper). If true, it is probably not the cost of the plastic
as a raw material which is so expensive but the cost of
producing it in the small particle size required. What makes
up the rest of the volume when less plastic is used I have
no idea, possibly more pigment or some other filler with a
small particle size.
Craig
---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com,
<unclefalter@...> wrote :Thanks muchly and
one other question if I may.. does it make any difference
using original vs reman/compatible toner? I have
compatible right now. The only thing I have with original
toner is my big Minolta copier. Also just a
clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that
leave me in the same place with respect to
oils?
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