On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 19:22:39 -0400, you wrote:
>That is simple to develop.i haven't done it in a while but it was d76
>developer , stop bath and fixer . you have to work in total dark until the
>fixer. If the size is 8 by 10 you could put it in a photo processing drum
>and let a motor do it for you. You would just need to drain the chemicals at
>the proper time.
>
>A friend of mine used to do it with lithograph film . I don't think it was
>as touchy and it could be handled under a yellow light if I recall.
Kodak Kodalith, 2 part developer, stop and fixer. Red light is fine.
gave almost a complete black and complete transparent, wonderful
stuff. However, there were two types, the line and the dot. Dot was
used for newspaper photographs, and line is what you wanted.
Harvey
>
>
>
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 5:24 PM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] images for photoresist
>
>
>
>
>
>On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 17:13:31 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>I'm using laser transparencies for photoresist boards and I would like to
>>test a real photographic film image. I understand real film has solid black
>>this is excellent at blocking light. Can anyone suggest a type of place
>>that can do photonegatives from a .jpg or .bmp? Can a CVS or Riteaid do
>>this?
>
>You want a professional place, one that does drawings, engineering
>prints, and the like. They're likely to have the ability to make the
>image. Photolithographers, for instance. Riteaid or CVS barely know
>how to develop Tri-x Pan.
>
>Harvey
>
>>
>>Jeff
>
>