| previous by date | index | next by date |
| previous in topic | topic list | next in topic |
Thanks guys.
I think the important thing for me is getting as close as I can to original material/look. If the toner process works just as well and avoids some difficulting in finding presensitized boards, I could go that route. Whatever it is, I just want something that has that vintage G10 green look.
Brad
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 1, 2015 12:55 PM
To: Homebrew PCBs <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10 questions
Sweet Memories:
There was once a really super company called Kepro.
They sold presensitized (with Kodak KPR) boards stock, both paper and G10 epoxy, for very
reasonable prices, and in a variety of sizes. You could even send in your own material and
they would coat it for you.
They also made a comprehensive array of photo-coat/expose/etch equipment, good enough
proto and light production operations.
When the Feds put a ban on aromatic compounds like Kodak KPR and others, the entire
industry went belly up, including the aforementioned DynaChem, which was also pretty good
stuff if you took the time to learn how to use it correctly.
I think most small-timers went to dry film resist, which is still available from several offshore
sellers on Ebay. There are also some sellers of liquid resist on Ebay.
I just prefer to purchase presensitized material from several suppliers on Ebay, along with
the required developer and plating solutions.
Of course etching is a cinch using a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid, which
is sold in my neck of the woods as swimming pool cleaner.
Copy machine transfer is good if you like to fart around all day just to produce a single
PCB.
Keep the faith.
Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗
From: "roger@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 8:34:54 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10 questions
I also built boards in the early years. One of the spray on resists was produced by a company called Dynachem. It was a system that required a solvent developer and a dye to color it so you could see what was going on. Going by the odor of the product, it was probably the same product later sold through GC Electronics with the dye added to the resist. Bishop graphics made the the stick on pattters for the tape up artwork. They patterns were available in 1X, 2X and larger IIIRC. I had a camera lens I picked up at a surplus store and made my own setup for 2X artwork and used Kodalith sheet film for the negatives. The spray on resist gave me inconsistant results, probably more my fault than the products fault. There was also a dry transfer product that used rub-on patterns and traced. There were also dry transfer letters for labels on projects. I still have some of the G10 copper clad material from that era never used it all.
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6086 / Virus Database: 4409/10551 - Release Date: 08/31/15
Internal Virus Database is out of date.