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Below is a copy of some emails I have exchanged with Lemar Vanheuveln who has successfully converted a Samsung ML2151N printer for Direct Laser Printing. I think Brother printers may work, but I know HP ones will not.
Mark
I'm satisfied that these Samsung machines will work fine for DLP. I'm getting good looking boards but the lines are slightly scalloped. I'm using Express PCB for software and the scalloping is there with two different computers. I don't think it has anything to do with printing to pc board material as I get the same on paper. I have more investigating to do on that problem. I'm pretty much convinced that it's unique to this printer.Several models of Samsung use the same basic system but i can't tell if they all have the pinch roller as this one has. If not, that would have to be added.I did cut some plastic at the front to get a straighter feed path but it was minimal.I may try to get another Samsung and take photos as I do the mods which would be beneficial for others and would get rid of the scalloping issue..So go ahead and let the group know there are other options for DLP. And thanks again for your assistance. I would not have tried modifying the Samsung if I hadn't read your description of modifying the Lexmark.On Sunday, February 15, 2015 8:40 PM, lemar vanheuveln <doyle51241@...> wrote:It's a little early as I've only run a few boards and my latest are not looking as good as the first. I'm not sure how much toner is in this cartridge so I'm going to play with that a bit. Another week should tell more.On Sunday, February 15, 2015 6:56 PM, Mark <mlerman@...> wrote:Lemar,That's fascinating! If that model works, the rest of the Samsung printers probably work as well. A simple mcu would, almost certainly, take care of the error message. Do you mind if I forward this to the Homebrew_PCBs list? I'm sure they will be interested in your success. Nice job!Mark-----Original Message-----
From: lemar vanheuveln
Sent: Feb 15, 2015 6:39 PM
To: Mark
Subject: Re: mcu
Mark:Thanks again for the help with the mcu. Unfortunately my e360 died in progress. It's like the laser isn't getting any data but whether that's because the controller isn't sending or it's a cable issue. I suspect the latter but haven't had enough time to pursue the issue. But...
Last week a friend gave me a Samsung ML2151N that they were having some problems with. I was going to strip it for the shafts and bearings but started looking at the paper path. It's rather straight with very little cutting to make the carrier go through. In addition, it has a pinch roller shaft similar to what you worked up for the Lexmark. It has LOTS of grip. Removing the MP sensor, plugging the paper empty sensor, and plugging the exit sensor along with a resistor to fake the fuser thermistor and I have a machine that prints toner to PC board material! No remounting sensors required. Really a simple mod. I did also strip the fuser and reinstall its frame along with a plastic piece that covers the power supply. Otherwise 110VAC is exposed to the aluminum carrier when it's pulled out the back. My carrier is now a little shorter after learning that lesson. Also, the manual has complete schematics for every board which will make trouble shooting easier if needed.The only downside with the above described mod is that without having an exit sensor, it shows a jam after every print and that requires powering down to reset. I may work up a mount for the exit in the future.
Thanks again for educating us about how to make these things work.