Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

Thanks for the reply.

Do I need to keep the flux just on the pads ( appears fiddly ), or can I just apply to the whole of the pads as a "square" of flux?

Am I correct in thinking that the latter would end up with more solder bridges due to the solder flowing between the pins due to the flux being between the pins?

Thanks,

Phil.

On 07/11/14 07:47, James bitsyboffin@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:

 

Put some gel flux (or liquid, but I prefer gel/paste from a syringe) down on the bare pads which you have previously cleaned with whatever solvent you prefer, align the IC, solder down  a pin on one corner to tack it in place, then just drag along the pins with your iron that has been pre-loaded with some solder, or you might prefer to "stroke" away from the pins, or use iron and solder together.  

Any bridges are usually easily sucked away by a cleaned iron, or wick if necessary.

The key is adding that extra flux.

Also, make the pads longer than whatever your PCB design tool's standard footprint is, even just 0.2mm extra length will make it easier to get solder on and wipe away bridges.

On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 8:40 PM, Phil Quinton phil.quinton@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi,

I've been lurking around here for some time and decided it was about time I asked a few questions myself :)

I've managed to get consistent single sided PCB's using Press n Peel, a GMC laminator and ferric chloride. However, when it comes to soldering LQFP's, I've been using pre-made LQFP to DIP adapters ( pre-tinned ). I've started to do small SMD resistors and capacitors, but I'd like some advice on the easiest way to solder LQFP's.

Every video I've found, the pads are already tinned.. Based on my own experience, if I attempt to tin the pads with solder by hand, I'll make a pigs ear of it.

I'm interested in how you guys do it?

Thanks in advance,

Phil.