If your copier or laser printer (whichever you're using) will feed it, try
pages from a Jameco Electronics catalog, it's the best I've found for doing
prototype boards.
I have found that toners are not created equally for toner transfer work,
certain toner and cartridges will work and others are a disaster.
At 04:51 PM 11/28/2003 -0000, you wrote:
>Being new to this, I am trying to make a toner transfer board. I have
>made one very simple postage stamp sized board and it worked OK. I am
>now trying to do a slightly more complex board (in a crawl-walk-run
>kinda thing) and am having a lot less luck. I have tried to transfer
>a couple of times and decided it wouldn't work right.
>
>I am printing on my regular 20lb 84 brightness Georgia
>Pacific "Copier Paper" $3 from walmart, and it leaves a lot
>of "hairs" on the toner. If I am aggressive enough to get these off,
>I also pull the toner off the board.
>
>How hard should I try to get these off? My first thought was they too
>will act as resist and I need to get them all off, is this true?
>Becaused my second thought was that they'll absorb the etchant (FeCl)
>and etch anyway albeit a bit slower.
>
>Is there any better paper out there that won't cost a fortune, I have
>seen the press'n'peel stuff and at $2 a sheet it's a bit costly if
>it's one shot. I have a small budget but I can afford to use a bit of
>time on the process.
>
>As an off topic question (and please if you reply to this reply
>personally) does anyone have any experience using the Zilog Z80 as a
>micro controller?
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>