That's fantastic! I've linked to this message in Links/Toner_Transfer to make it simpler to find in the future.
Steve Greenfield AE7HD
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <twgray2007@...> wrote:
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> For all the comments, insight, and help this group has been, I feel compelled to share my sucess using the toner transfer pcb method.
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> After testing all the ideas and methods mentioned in this list for the past few years I finally came up with a method that works 100% of the time, with 100% toner transfer to copper, and virtually perfect traces and pads everytime. This is not a fluke...I've had many of those, as well as many failures.
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> My method uses adhesive backed vinyl made for silhouette cutters. labelled Premium Vinyl (white) and purchased from Michael's Crafts. I use a GBC personal laminator, modifed as per the Pulsar website (changed one of the thermostats). To get the perfect transfer, I also use the 0.032" pcb, purchased from Pulsar, but available many places. Using this half-thickness board and passing it through the laminator 10 times, 5 in each direction, either x or y. I then place the (very hot) board/vinyl combo in the freezer for 20 minutes. At that point, the vinyl peels off, leaving 100% of the toner on the board. No clay residuals like I have with almost any type paper, other than the Pulsar or Chinese stuff. Perfect, clean, sharp tracks and pads.
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> The only downside is that if I use standard FR4, 0.064" copper-clad with this laminator I get flattened, bleeding tracks and pads, as described elsewhere in this topic. So, that is still a work in progress.
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> I hope this helps someone along the way.
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