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Thanks very much James.
I can try both of your methods and see how things work. I just called Officeworks and they can do A4 transparency for a whopping 60c or A4 tracing paper for a whopping 40c LOL, so if my attempts fail I could pop down there and see how that turns out.
The guy was helpful but very un-knowledgable about toner density. I might find out what printer they use and see if I can download the user manual then I can tell him how to get max density. I'm sure he'll like that, LOL.
Keith.
---In homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com, <bitsyboffin@...> wrote:You don't need a pitch black and thick toner cover for UV, uniformity is more important, if your exposure is short. When I started doing UV I always printed 2 copies and aligned them for extra darkness and did a long exposure (2m30s), but now I only print one copy, works just as well with a short exposure (50 seconds under UV leds). I use dry film negative resist and tracing paper artwork.
As for printers, I have several but the one i use mainly for this is a Brother HL5340D, with Toner save off and "Improve Toner Fixing" on, at 1200dpi. My MFC-7420 doesnt have an fixing improvement setting and the toner tends to rub off tracing paper too easily if I use that printer.
At least here in NZ printers (laser and inkjet both) are pretty easy to come by second hand for between $1 and $20, buy one, use it, abuse it, strip it down for bits when you're done and move on to the next.
On 17/10/13 13:28, beefyzee@... wrote:
I thought because it had a resolution of 1200 x 1200 it may lay down a decent quantity of toner but that's not the case. I've just got my UV box and wanted to try my first photo resist PCB board but after printing the pattern I hold the paper up to the light and I can see my fingers through the toner quite easily. The light is definitely getting through the "black" so I'm guessing the UV would get past it too.