I use Icewater. No problems with the transfer, no pinholes etc. When I am using ferric everything works fine I only get problems when I tried electrolytic etching with copper sulfate as electrolyte. There the toner gets just eaten away i a short time, while after etching in ferric I have to remove it with acetone because it sticks still very good.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...> wrote:
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> Did you freeze the paper after thermal transfer, or just soak in water.
> Freezing for 20 mins. to 1/2 hour gives a denser transfer and easier paper removal.
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> Malcolm
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> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Sun, 9/22/13, rolynd33 <roland.rasch@...> wrote:
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> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Some etched Artwork finished and questions on electrolytic etching
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, September 22, 2013, 11:18 AM
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> I recently finished some etched Pendants.
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> You can see sone photos here:
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> http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,41175.0.html
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> I used the toner Transfer method and ferric chloride with
> good results . The etch is fairly deep compared to the usual
> etch depth needed for PCB but detail is still very good.
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> I alternatively tried the electrolytic etch method with not
> so much sucess. I use canon Toner and it seems it does not
> hold up to a copper sulfate electrolyte. Its fine in
> chlorides though but the saltwater etch presented its own
> problems, a white precipitate forms on the etched piece
> eating the toner. Another member suggested HP toner.
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> I want to try making the electrolytic etch to work, before I
> get myself a new/used HP printer I wanted to ask here if
> someone can confirm the usability of HP toner or maybe has
> experience with the electrolytic etch method and copper
> sulfate?
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