Harvey,
I'm in Tampa
looks like were almost neighbors. :)
Mine seems to settle in around olive green. Ive never seen any blue to speak of.
my ingredients are: CVS or Walgreens Hydrogen peroxide, and good ole Home depot Muratic acid sold in 1 gallon jugs.
my results are always the same. I have heard of people getting etch times in the sub 10 mins I have never had one etch that fast.
perhaps they are using 1/2 oz frp boards? 6 mins vs my 13 is about 1:2 ratio.
My bubbler works extraordinarily well. my tank has the heat option but As i said earlier I get the same results either way.
I think the weakest link with my setup is I have yet to find a way to hold the boards perfectly vertical so they etch the same on both sides
one side always etches faster than the other (the side getting more bubbles)
Sam
On Sep 3, 2013, at 8:06 PM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
> On Tue, 03 Sep 2013 23:51:48 -0000, you wrote:
>
> >Forgot to mention.
> >
> >here is what mine looked like.
> >http://thesn1per.blogspot.com/2013/06/diy-circuit-boards-tachometer.html
> >
> >The color you see is the result after about 1 hour of mixing with a small piece of coper
> >bubbling the entire time. I used no heat. Im in Florida the ambient temp is quite hot as it is.
> >I tried heat on previous times the results ere the same.
> >I will add as time goes on the mixture will become a darker shade of green.
> >I hope this helps.
>
> Hmmmm. Ok. As I first started it, peroxide and HCl, the mixture was
> transparent and colorless. Boards etched in about 6 minutes or so (I
> did have air bubbling through and did heat the solution).
>
> As the solution aged, it turned blue/green, not the same shade of
> green you show here.
>
> As it aged past that, it turned a dark green, almost opaque, a slight
> shade of olive green.
>
> Air is used to bubble through the solution as it heats, and is used
> continually as the solution etches. I use heat anyway, and the
> temperature is about 110 or so F, it could get to 120 but I'm not sure
> you want it hotter than that.
>
> I used the copper in the boards to make the CuCl etchant, no sense in
> wasting the peroxide dissolving unwanted copper.
>
> Not sure what the problem is with what you have, but the color seems
> to be off. You should get the standard blue copper sulfate kind of
> color to start with.
>
> With the olive solution (if it turns brown, it's off), adding peroxide
> can change it to a blue transparent solution.
>
> You near Orlando?
>
> Harvey
>
> >Sam
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "thesn1per" <mail4sam@...> wrote:
> >>
> >> Pink? should be green or some shade of.
> >> Sam
> >>
> >> Read this.
> >> http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <twgray2007@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > OK, I tried bubbling air through the mixture for about 24 hours with no change. I heated to about 40 C and placed a PCB in just to test and after about 25 minutes it had just started to turn pink from etching. The volume was at about 1/2 gallon and to this I added about 1/2 cup of HCL and left the board in for another 30 minutes with little change.
> >> >
> >> > I think I will now put a lot of copper wire in, at 40 C and let it run to see if it will "take off", as you put it.
> >> >
> >>
>
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