Rick
I have had equal success using ink jet photo paper from our local pound shop. It is a heavy weight paper, 10 sheets for one UK pound, and the toner separation was complete. It seems that the freezing after thermal transfer is the key. The 0.005" boundary lines even transferred.
Malcolm
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/13/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Easy Fast Laser Print DIY Circuit Boards - Dave's toner-transfer freezing technique
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2013, 11:56 PM
James,
This is what I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A4-10Pcs-Sheets-Heat-Toner-Transfer-Paper-For-DIY-PC
B-Electronic-Prototype-Mak-/170900415631
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of James Newton
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 11:11 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Easy Fast Laser Print DIY
Circuit Boards -
Dave's toner-transfer freezing technique
Rick, can you share the source, part number and mfgr, or any
other details
about the "special waxed paper"?
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com,
"Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>
> The special waxed paper came in WAY ahead of the
promise date - got it
today. Wonderful material! I drafted a 1" long scale
with 10 major and 30
minor divisions on it using DesignCAD V14. It was then
printed, mirror
image, onto the wax paper. I printed 4 coupons at a time.
Two of these
coupons were taped to 2 small pieces of copper plate.
>
>
>
> I ran my copper plates with the waxed paper on top
through my laminator 10
times. Then I put the samples in the freezer for 15, not 30
minutes. The
paper fell away from the toner. Then I dropped the two
samples in rather
used up ferric chloride that I put out in the Arizona sun.
Every 15 minutes
I would bump the container. After an hour I pulled out the
samples. The
toner was solid and I had etched down about 0.001"
according to my caliper.
The fine lines of the scale and numbers all looked perfect.
>
>
>
> My last small challenge is figuring out how to color
the background and
leave the raised copper areas shiny. I tried coating the
entire surface and
then abrading the raised area. Didn't do a very good job
but the technique
shows promise.
>
>
>
------------------------------------
Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links,
Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo!
Groups Links