One other thing to think about. Any bubbles in the ink will harden into
surface imperfections, so you should smooth out any bubbles before exposing.
Really thin plastic will leave a lot of wrinkles in the surface. If you use
relatively stiff plastic with a glossy finish you can get a very smooth
finish on your board. I use a small piece of tubing to roll out the bubbles
and even out the coverage. I can get fairly nice results pretty
consistently. Like glass.
--
Phil M.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James" <bitsyboffin@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: shelving vinyl toner transfer
> On 29/06/13 14:47, Terry wrote:
>>
>> So, to clarify, are you saying to spread the ink on the board, then
>> cover with cellophane? Then while still wet, place the mask and expose?
>> .
>>
>>
>>
>
> Yes that's correct.
>
> Thin layer of the ink (paint, whatever you want to call it), cover it
> (still wet) with your cellophane (or other suitable plastic which
> works), put your artwork against the cellophane, expose for XX minutes,
> remove artwork, peel off cellophane. The unexposed areas (black in your
> artwork) will be wet and simply wipe clean, the exposed areas will be
> cured hard like epoxy.
>
> The ink is cured (dried and hardened) by UV, drying it any other way is
> virtually impossible, and just makes it really hard to remove the
> unexposed areas afterwards.
>
> The cellophane (whatever) covering serves two purposes, one it keeps the
> ink off your artwork, and two it seals the ink against air while you are
> exposing it - air inhibits curing.
>
>
>