Oh you are so embedded in the "modern" age. I would suggest that there is at least one more method, you can draw the circuit by hand on the PC board with a pen that has a paint style ink, like the Sharpies. It goes something like this:
1. Make a rough sketch on graph paper so you know it will fit.
2. Cut a piece of copper clad board to the desired size.
3. Cut or mark off a piece of 1/10" X 1/10" perf board to the outer size. You could also print a adhesive label for this.
4. Mark the positions of the components on the perf board with a Sharpie pen (or adhesive label).
5. Lay the perf board or label over the copper clad board and use a prick punch to mark the location of each of the holes. For surface mount components, you can punch the center or ends of the pads but do not drill them below.
6. With a steady hand add pads and traces with the Sharpie style pen.
7. Etch the board.
8. Drill as needed at the punch marks.
If you need a two sided board, drill the holes before drawing the pads and traces and you will have perfect alignment. Add Z wires for vias and solder all component leads on both sides. Where a component lead can not be soldered on the top side, add a via with a Z wire close to it.
I am presently doing a design and may use this very technique for the first prototype boards. It is possible to add pre-etched boards for some components like small outline ICs.
A variation on this method is to use rub off transfers and/or precut pads for the component outlines and tape cut to the proper line width for the traces. This is less reliable than the above because it is hard to get complete adhesion to the copper and the etching solution can leak under them. If you do this, you will have to do some repair work on the traces but the board will probably be usable.
Paul A.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
>
> Harvey,
>
> I think your overview is very good describing the four major PCB making
> principles:
>
> PCB milling
>
> Direct inkjet resist printing
>
> Toner transfer
>
> Photo resist with an artwork.
>
>
>
> After a good overview there can then be links to the separate sub-sections.
>
> Bertho
>
>
>
> From: Harvey White Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 18:20
>
>
>
> On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:59:59 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >Very good advice and it ought to be saved.
> >
> >Maybe add one little clarification:
> >
> >The photo resist method requires an artwork (black and clear transparency)
> >that can be created by different printers, for example LaserJet or inkjet.
>
> Absolutely, and the difference in density of the print makes it
> critical for best results.
>
> I also didn't go into positive or negative or negative resists.
>
> Perhaps we need a bit more of a FAQ on this? I suppose it could get
> out of hand, though.
>
> Perhaps we do this in several levels:
>
> 1) preliminary questions
>
> 2) general guides
>
> 3) specific questions and answers for different procedures
>
> Or are we creating a monster here?
>
> Harvey
>
> >
> >Bertho
> >
> >
> >
> >From: Harvey White Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 16:11
> >
> >
> >
> >On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 23:45:11 +0800, you wrote:
> >
> >>On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 10:32 PM, Harvey White <madyn@...
> <mailto:madyn%40dragonworks.info>
> ><mailto:madyn%40dragonworks.info> > wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Perhaps the best way to answer the question is with a series of
> >>> questions so we can give you some specific answers.
> >>
> >>Wow good advice Harvey, does this group have some sort of FAQ we can
> >>capture this in?
> >
> >There might be one, I'd be ok with the owner or moderator adding this
> >to that FAQ if he wishes.
> >
> >Harvey
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>