You might try a broken carbide PCB drillbit. It has a built-in flair.
You should also be able to solder directly without pre-tinning and
pre-fluxing the rivet, flux never hurts, add a very small amount of solder.
Bertho
From: James Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2013 03:57
On 09/04/13 13:32, David Halbakken wrote:
>
> James, what tool are you using to peen the rivets? I did not notice
> any tools specifically for that purpose on the taobao site.
>
I did some testing with "peening" the rivets tonight, I got the best
results by inserting from the "presentation" side, then using a very
sharp fine point (I ground a point on a 1mm or so rod, but just a
drawing pin would work) on the bottom of the rivet to enlarge the hole
slightly (insert point and a couple of light taps, or just work in a
circular motion by hand), then pressing it using a 10mm flat ended rod
chucked in my drill press.
Enlarging the hole on the bottom side makes them press more evenly,
otherwise they tend to collapse to one side or split to both sides
causing the bottom to press out quite far in at least one direction.
I tried making a spike-and-press tool in one (a very fine and short
point in the center of the end of 10mm rod diameter something like
http://www.flickr.com/photos/93638530@N08/8643991549/in/photostream )
but I was unsuccessful in constructing it with my grinder, if I could
construct it, I think that would work well in a drill press. I've
thought that maybe there is some other way to make it. Grind a point on
the end of an old 0.8mm drill shaft, drill a 0.8mm hole in the end of
the 10mm rod, insert the pointed shaft with some epoxy to the right
depth. Still much easier said than done drilling 0.8mm hole into a
steel rod. Might work though...
Anyway, I'm thinking to tin the via pads, put some flux on the rivet,
insert and peen rivet, then apply the iron to heat the rivet and the
solder under it to ensure a long lasting connection.
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