hi todd,
actually, it's a local company ( i live in indonesia).
http://www.tokoprapatan.com/v1/, their location near my office. it costs
me about $1/sheet. the quality is very satisfying me.
regards
hari.
On 4/11/2013 1:37 AM, Todd F. Carney / K7TFC wrote:
> Hari,
>
> Could you share with us the name of the company that makes your
> transparencies?
>
> 73,
>
> Todd
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 3:09 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...> wrote:
>
>> ∗∗
>>
>>
>> i'm using old hp laser printer, i think it ran out of toner. i've found
>> printing company that will accept printing transparencies in small
>> quantities, one or two pieces with excellent density/opacity at
>> reasonable price. i think i'll go that way. but thanks for your
>> suggestion :)
>>
>> regards
>> hari
>>
>> On 4/8/2013 6:24 PM, tda7000 wrote:
>>> If your printout is not dark enough, you can try darkening with a
>>> black whiteboard marker. (more info in the group posts) I've used that
>>> trick with good results on printouts from my own printer.
>>>
>>> I tried it on printouts from the local copy shop but it did not work
>>> at all. I think their toner may be different in some way than mine. It
>>> certainly feels quite different if I run my fingers over the printout.
>>>
>>> When using their copier I print 2 copies and double up. Works great
>>> (apart from the annoyance of doing the alignment) 6 Minute exposure
>>> time with standard UV LEDs, Then I leave it in the dark to cure for 10
>>> minutes before developing.
>>>
>>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
>>>> Great progress!
>>>>
>>>> Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if
>>> possible
>>>> to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step
>>> wedge
>>>> with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step
>>>> wedge in the exposures.
>>>>
>>>> Bertho
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> hey guys,
>>>> i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
>>>> laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
>>>> had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
>>>> negative film i used.
>>>>
>>>> http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg
>>>>
>>>> thanks for all your times and helps guys
>>>>
>>>> regards
>>>>
>>>> hari
>>>>
>>>> On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
>>>>> i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
>>>>> just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me,
>> and
>>>>> thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
>>>>> results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look
>>> on the
>>>>> video.
>>>>>
>>>>> anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
>>>>> using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
>>>>> especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used
>> tape
>>>>> on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks for all your supports guys :)
>>>>>
>>>>> regards
>>>>> hari
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>