Hari,
Could you share with us the name of the company that makes your
transparencies?
73,
Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design
On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 3:09 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...> wrote:
> ∗∗
>
>
> i'm using old hp laser printer, i think it ran out of toner. i've found
> printing company that will accept printing transparencies in small
> quantities, one or two pieces with excellent density/opacity at
> reasonable price. i think i'll go that way. but thanks for your
> suggestion :)
>
> regards
> hari
>
> On 4/8/2013 6:24 PM, tda7000 wrote:
> >
> > If your printout is not dark enough, you can try darkening with a
> > black whiteboard marker. (more info in the group posts) I've used that
> > trick with good results on printouts from my own printer.
> >
> > I tried it on printouts from the local copy shop but it did not work
> > at all. I think their toner may be different in some way than mine. It
> > certainly feels quite different if I run my fingers over the printout.
> >
> > When using their copier I print 2 copies and double up. Works great
> > (apart from the annoyance of doing the alignment) 6 Minute exposure
> > time with standard UV LEDs, Then I leave it in the dark to cure for 10
> > minutes before developing.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Great progress!
> > >
> > > Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if
> > possible
> > > to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step
> > wedge
> > > with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step
> > > wedge in the exposures.
> > >
> > > Bertho
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > hey guys,
> > > i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
> > > laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
> > > had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
> > > negative film i used.
> > >
> > > http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg
> > >
> > > thanks for all your times and helps guys
> > >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > hari
> > >
> > > On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
> > > >
> > > > i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
> > > > just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me,
> and
> > > > thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
> > > > results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look
> > on the
> > > > video.
> > > >
> > > > anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
> > > > using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
> > > > especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used
> tape
> > > > on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
> > > >
> > > > thanks for all your supports guys :)
> > > >
> > > > regards
> > > > hari
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]