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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] any chance stick dry film to pcb w/o laminator ?

From: Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...>
Date: 2013-03-25

hi james thanks for quick response

On 3/25/2013 10:07 AM, James wrote:
>
> On 25/03/13 15:33, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
> >
> > good day,
> >
> > i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> > about how to stick dry film to pcb, all methods involving laminator. is
> > there some way for me to stick dry film without laminator?. i've tried
> >
>
> In my (limited) experience, get a laminator. The results from the
> non-laminator methods have not been good for me, and they are tricky.
>
> A laminator is the best way, and I find that making a simple carrier out
> of a thin piece of card, and a couple of "end stops" made out of
> popsicle sticks (sanded down so they are a little thinner than the PCB)
> makes it much easier and more reliable to get a "perfect" lamination.
>
> Pretty much any laminator will do. The film needs only a moderate heat.
>
this is a good news for me.
>
>
> If you want to try no-laminator methods anyway, here are two
>
> 1. apply film manually, careful to avoid bubbles and wrinkles, sit on
> top of an iron to heat the entire board (I guess, film side away from
> the iron)
> 2. the hot water method, briefly, pour hot water over PCB, remove
> bottom layer from film, lie the top of the film against a damp squeegee
> board, re-wet the pcb with hot water, squeegee the film on, allow to
> cool, search the archives there is a link to it (you'll have to accept
> the warnings from Chrome about it being a possibly malware loaded site,
> it's just a harmless PDF).
>
> Remember, it doesn't actually require a lot of heat, well less than
> 100'C, I think it's about 50'C to 70'C.
>
> >
>
i found that the hardest part was avoiding any bubbles and wrinkles. i'm
gonna take a look on PDF instructions.

thanks


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