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Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: etching the OD of a cylinder to create a graduated dial

From: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
Date: 2013-03-20

Andy,

The dial has to be continuous in most cases. I did have to play around a bit
to get it to not overlap but finally did figure it out.

By TT I assume you mean toner transfer. I never could get it to work either
with etching. The toner breaks down too quickly. I was gluing the toner down
with the crazy glue. Can't etch through it.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Andrew Volk
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 4:22 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: etching the OD of a cylinder to create a
graduated dial

Rick -



If the dial has to be continuous and accurate around the entire cylinder,
then the etch method has some inherent limitation of getting the "wrap" just
right. Is your transparency method good in this case? The other problem I
have encountered when I tried (note tried, but not succeeded) to etch into
solid backgrounds with TT is that the depth needed seemed to be more than
the method would withstand. Copper clad is thin stuff and the substrate is
inherently a good etch stop and visual contrast for the etch. I could use
some help myself with fine line solid metal (aluminum preferably, or brass)
using TT.



Andy



From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Rick Sparber
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 3:34 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: etching the OD of a cylinder to create a
graduated dial





Andrew,

By "new method" I mean chemical etching. My hobby is "inventing". I do have
a lathe, mill, and shaper so could make a dial if I wanted but that is with
standard methods. When I etch a circuit board, the features are very shape
and detailed. So why would I not get crisp features on a dial?

I can transfer toner to metal by using kitchen parchment paper and crazy
glue. Works OK. But true etching would be far more interesting right now.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2013 1:53 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: etching the OD of a cylinder to create a
graduated dial

Rick,

When you say "a new method," do you mean new compared to the
mirror-image-on-clear-plastic that you described earlier, or are you also
including new as compared to the standard machinist route using a dividing
head and number stamps?

I understand that you want to try an etching method, and if you succeed I
will be interested in seeing your results. My suspicion is that it will not
be as clear and crisp as the dividing head look ... but of course, I may be
proved wrong.

A year or so ago, a participant on the Practical Machinist forum described
his rebuild of a large bandsaw (over a span of many, many posts); IIRC, one
segment detailed his re-creation of some machine plates using an etching
process. These were flat, however, rather than cylindrical -- a much easier
proposition. Still, might be worth looking at for ideas, if you haven't
already seen it.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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