"etch with muriatic acid so you do not have throw out your solution when saturated with copper."
Are you talking about the peroxide + muriatic acid etchant or the one that is based initially on copper (II) chloride? While it is true that the former eventually becomes the latter, at the outset, they are not the same. The peroxide etchant is more aggressive. I tried using the peroxide method with a photoresist, and it eat the resist that I use (Injectorall). That might be part of your problem.
Of the three etchants you mention, ferric chloride is the easiest to use and gives the best results in terms of minimal undercutting, a broad endpoint, and fine lines. I suggest using that until you get a method working. When I switched to cupric chloride, the biggest change I noticed was at the end point. It was easier to over etch the PCB.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: bruce_fleming
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 4:16 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cupric Chloride Fumes
Hi all. I am new to this forum and am working on etching. The ferric chloride has been tried a few times. While searching for better ways to etch using ferric chloride I came across an Instructables on how to etch with muriatic acid so you do not have throw out your solution when saturated with copper.
When I tried the Cupric Chloride the I made sure the area was well ventilated but I believe the cold slowed down the etching process so much that the traces also were partially destroyed.
Has anybody found a fume hood that will handle cupric chloride? Etching outside or with a window open is not a good option in the winter.
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