=
Found TSP on E-Bay, add for Lowes and add for technical grade thru E-Bay. Have letter scale and could use exact weight in grams if possible. I have .94mm or .034inch board stock. What is the size of GPC Creative board stock.
Max thickness? Thanks Kevin.
________________________________
From: smilingcat90254 <
smilingcat@...>
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 1:08 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Need More Heat - GBC Laminator (pics included)
TSP (Trisodium phosphate) can be had at Home Depot, Lowes or any paint shop. It is a very strong degreaser with good wetting characteristics. only need about teaspoon to about a tablespoon per quart of water. Quart is about a litre off hand. I'll weigh out TSP in grams later and will advise. It is also alkaline so it doesn't corrode the copper.
The thin white film left over after cleaning is a very thin plastic layer with lower MP than the clear film on the photopaper you are removing. Photopaper has a very thin plastic layer at the top. Underneath is a thicker clear plastic layer with higher MP. Underneath is the paper backing. Backside has another layer of opaque matt plastic layer. There may be more to it but this is what I found out so far.
from top to bottom:
very thin plastic with low MP (top layer)
thick clear plastic with higher MP
paper
matt white plastic with even higher MP (bottom layer or backside)
Ms. Smilingcat
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Byrne <kbyrne10@...> wrote:
>
> What is the ingredients of TSP Solution as I need that to go to drug store? Thanks Kevin
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: tda7000 <Tda7000@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 5:08 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Need More Heat - GBC Laminator (pics included)
>
>
> Â
> I get the white residue when using magazine paper. You won't get it if you use proper transfer paper.
>
> It doesn't make a difference to the board, just looks weird.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dubob4432" <dubob4432@> wrote:
> >
> > Maybe I am using too much heat - I prep as you recommend and once done, I put the piece in water and let the paper come off. Once it dries, the traces are black but slowly turn white as if paper is adhered to the paper.
> >
> > Possibly I am going the wrong way? Maybe just 1-2 passes through the laminator and not 10?
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "smilingcat90254" <smilingcat@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been using a thermal press with direct temperature read out on the aluminum heat plate. I can set temperature and pressure on the thermal press.
> > >
> > > HP toner will melt around 110C. might be even lower around 105C or so. At lower temperature, the toner may have a harder time fusing onto the copper.
> > >
> > > Copper needs to be ultra clean. I use 0000 steel wool. followed by scrubbing with TSP solution using scotch brite (green) pad, then rinse with water then cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Wear glove through out the process. Laminate image immediately to reduce contaminating the copper surface and oxidation. Someone thought oxidizing in the etcher for few second made the image adhere better. Haven't tried so have no comment about oxidizing surface.
> > >
> > > I really do need reliable repeatability down to 6/6 mil. I may go to photoresist. Found a source at around $3.00/ft^2. Not cheap but claims to get images down to 1/1 mil. Stuff is called puretch. Distributor is an artist out of South Carolina. Think and Tinker has similar material not as high performance at around ??$2.00?? per square feet but you need to spend over $100.00 for the minimum quantity.
> > >
> > > Result I'm getting out of photopaper of all different kinds, specially formulated toner transfer paper is just not cutting it for me.
> > >
> > > Anyway, temperature set it around 105C to about 130C. At 115C and above the plastic coating on the photopaper will decompose and will turn into hard white film.
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dubob4432" <dubob4432@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello,
> > > >
> > > > I need to get a bit more heat out of this GBC Creative Laminator. Very close but probably another 10-20C would be what I need (ability to adjust would be EXCELLENT). How do I go about accomplishing my goal. Has the Daewoo KSD602 thermostat - http://www.daewood.com.hk/en/productdetail.asp?id=122&sortid=210&pid=.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator001.jpg
> > > >
> > > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator002.jpg
> > > >
> > > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator003.jpg
> > > >
> > > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator004.jpg
> > > >
> > > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator005.jpg
> > > >
> > > > Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I did not remove the power board area but have no problems going into that area - I am so close, I just feel the toner is not being 'baked' onto the copper clad quite enough to stand up to the time in the muriatic acid / H2O2 w/ the bubbler and small, important pieces are coming off. Doing .5mm pitch smd work.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Bob
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
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>
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